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Santa Maria Maior

Santa Maria Maior is a civil parish where Lisbon reveals itself in layers and gradients. Between the geometry of Baixa, the slopes of Alfama and Castelo, Chiado and Mouraria, a few kilometres span Roman remains, medieval street patterns, Pombaline rebuilding and early-20th-century ironwork. It is not a collection of monuments, but a city that changed its skin without entirely erasing the earlier ones.

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History

Castelo hill holds some of the city’s oldest surviving layers. On its slope, the Roman Theatre, built in the 1st century, used the natural gradient; part of its ruins was later buried beneath newer buildings, in a very Lisbon example of a city building over itself. Higher up, the Núcleo Arqueológico do Castelo de São Jorge preserves mid-11th-century Islamic domestic structures.

Following the Christian conquest of 1147, construction began on Sé de Lisboa, linked to the historic name Igreja de Santa Maria Maior. Its site probably corresponds to that of a former mosque, although this is not an archaeological certainty. Medieval neighbourhoods developed around it, including Alfama, Castelo, Mouraria and São Cristóvão, where narrow streets, stairways and street patterns predating the Pombaline reconstruction remain. Igreja de São Cristóvão originated in a church associated with Lisbon’s Mozarabic community during the Islamic period and was largely rebuilt in the first half of the 18th century.

By the 17th century, these streets already had their congestion: coaches, sedan chairs, seges and carts competed for passages too narrow for two vehicles. A decree of 9 October 1686 set out priorities, generally requiring uphill traffic to reverse and let downhill traffic pass. The 1755 earthquake, followed by fires and the waters of the Tejo entering the city, transformed the centre profoundly. Under Manuel da Maia’s direction, Baixa was rebuilt with broad streets, regular blocks and a new framework between Praça do Comércio and Rossio; on the slopes, older street patterns proved more stubborn.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, Ruínas do Carmo became an open-air reminder of the earthquake, while Elevador de Santa Justa, inaugurated in 1902, addressed the rise between Baixa and Carmo in iron. The present-day civil parish of Santa Maria Maior was created in Lisbon’s 2012 administrative reorganisation, bringing together twelve former parishes and neighbourhoods that retain distinct identities.

02

Reference points

  1. 01Castelo de São Jorge
  2. 02Núcleo Arqueológico do Castelo de São Jorge
  3. 03Sé de Lisboa
  4. 04Largo da Sé
  5. 05Museu de Lisboa – Teatro Romano
  6. 06Rua do Salvador
  7. 07Portas do Sol
  8. 08Igreja de São Cristóvão
  9. 09Largo de São Cristóvão
  10. 10Mouraria
  11. 11Martim Moniz
  12. 12Praça da Figueira
  13. 13Rossio
  14. 14Baixa Pombalina
  15. 15Rua Augusta
  16. 16Praça do Comércio
  17. 17Arco da Rua Augusta
  18. 18Casa dos Bicos
  19. 19Largo do Carmo
  20. 20Ruínas do Carmo
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Suggestions for exploring

  • On Rua do Salvador, look for the stone marker that once indicated priority for coach traffic.
  • Compare the narrow streets of Alfama with the regular geometry of Baixa Pombalina.
  • Notice how the Roman Theatre uses the hill’s natural slope.
  • Walk around Sé de Lisboa and look for the building’s different architectural phases.
  • Head uphill towards Castelo, looking for remnants of the city’s former walls and gateways.
  • Cross Mouraria with an eye on street names, stairways and the scale of its lanes.
  • Follow Rua Augusta and notice the regularity of the Pombaline blocks.
  • Compare the openness of Praça do Comércio with the neighbourhoods built on the slopes.
  • Look closely at Casa dos Bicos and its pointed stone façade.
  • At Largo do Carmo, take in the open nave of Ruínas do Carmo.
  • Notice how Elevador de Santa Justa tackles the rise between Baixa and Carmo.
04

Editorial sources

Content reviewed against the sources listed below.

  1. Junta de Freguesia de Santa Maria Maior — História da Freguesia ↗
  2. GeoLisboa — Os primeiros sinais de trânsito de Lisboa ↗
  3. Património Cultural — Castelo de São Jorge ↗
  4. Património Cultural — Sé de Lisboa ↗
  5. Património Cultural — Teatro Romano de Lisboa ↗
  6. Castelo de São Jorge — Núcleo Arqueológico ↗
  7. Museu Arqueológico do Carmo — Brochura ↗
  8. Arquivo Municipal de Lisboa — Baixa Pombalina ↗